Red Radishes, Green Bok Choy Fill First-of-Season Farm Basket

By RACHEL KOVAC

The West Tisbury Farmers' Market opened Saturday morning under
a gray sky. And while the number of vendors is down this year, shoppers
making a trip to the Grange Hall grounds still came away with the best
of the Vineyard's farms and fields, along with homemade jams,
baked goods, fruits and herbs.

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"It's important to support these people even if you pay
a dollar more for a bunch of radishes," said Jack Reed, who spent
the morning selling wheat grass juice. As he ran the grass through a
juicer, mixing in apple and mint, Mr. Reed reflected on his years
selling at the market.

He can remember a time when there was a waiting list to get a spot
at the market - now there is lots of space for people to set up
shop. He also recalled a time when people had to wait in a line to reach
the first booth. And the most disturbing trend for Mr. Reed is the age
of the farmers at the market. There aren't any young people, he
said. "You can make more an hour doing anything - even
babysitting," he said. "Plants are not about
industry."

Thirty-year-old Krishana Collins thinks she is probably the youngest
farmer at the market. In her second year participating, Ms. Collins said
she has been encouraged by the older farmers but sees how markets like
the one in West Tisbury could die if young people do not get involved.

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"I think the farmers need a lot of support," she said.
"Young farmers need to be encouraged and land needs to be made
available." As she pushes for change Ms. Collins will continue to
farm and sell her Asian greens, baby bok choi and arugula every
Saturday. For her this is the perfect place to be in business.

"It gives you a sense of community," she said.
"You directly interact with your customers. There is a lot of
glory in it to grow the vegetables and then see the people who buy them.
Otherwise I'm kind of anonymous."

Nearby, eight-year-old Johnny Staley was making the rounds with his
father. At every booth he asked, "How do you make that?" The
Staleys passed vendors selling flowers, honey, salsa and vinegar. A
bunch of red caught Johnny's eye, and he dropped his
father's hand to rush to the radishes offered by Blackwater Farm.

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"How do you make that?"

His father, John Staley, explained the vegetables start as seeds and
farmers put them into the ground and water them. Biting into one,
Johnny's turned sour. "Yuck," he spat, handing the
vegetables over to his father.

"He's never tasted a radish before," Mr. Staley
explained before taking a bite himself. "These are great."
Encouraged by his father's positive expression Johnny grabbed for
the radishes and proceeded to eat several, telling everyone who passed,
"These are great."

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The Staleys come to the market every year when they visit the
Vineyard in the early summer. Mr. Staley said it is usually slow the
first few weeks, but by the time his family is ready to return to New
York city the market is busy. But this year Mr. Staley said he was
surprised to show up on opening day and find so few people milling
about.

"Maybe it's the weather," he said. "It looks
like it could rain. But if the numbers stay low like this I would be
very disappointed. This is one of my favorite summer places. You could
pretty much buy anything you ever wanted to eat right here."

The market adheres to a strict policy - homegrown or homemade.
Nothing from off-Island either. But in keeping with the times the market
has branched out from just vegetables and flowers to homemade pies,
wraps and lotions.

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Suzanne Fenn sells fresh salsa and lemonade. It might not be
traditional farmers' market fare, but she has been making her
products by hand every Friday for 17 years.

"This is the way I make my living during the summer,"
she said. "It buys the gas and pays for the groceries." Ms.
Fenn spends the winter in Boulder, Colo. She sees the numbers dropping
at the Saturday market, but thinks some of that is due to the Wednesday
market.

"This market got really busy and I think people started going
to the Wednesday market," Ms. Fenn said. The Wednesday market
begins on June 22. "The economy has a lot to do with it
too."

Like many others Ms. Fenn thinks the farmers' market is the
perfect place to do business. She said she wonders why people would buy
vegetables at the grocery store when they can buy it from a neighbor who
picked it from the garden that morning.

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The farmers' market is more than a buying experience -
it can be an education. Mr. Reed sells wheat grass juice, but he also
tries to educate everyone who comes by his booth. A book boasting the
benefits of the wheat grass sits on his table giving facts about the
nutritional value of what grows in your front yard. It's all about
the chlorophyll, which is chemically only one step away from blood, Mr.
Reed said.

"It's supposed to give you a sense of well-being and
energy," he said. He uses first-cut grass, grown in good soil
enriched with organic supplements. "Instead of mowing their lawn
people could juice their lawn. Mowing your lawn is like one big
aromatherapy. You could live on your lawn," he said.

At the market Mr. Reed is able to interact with people and encourage
them to get outside and not rush around. He uses the time to continue
his quest to promote farming even on the most basic level.

"I think people need to garden like the world depended on
it," Mr. Reed said.

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