We're approaching the two channel markers that everyone recognizes off of West Chop. Dead ahead of us is the schooner Alabama. We are surrounded by a flotilla of maybe 25 boats, ranging from catboats to Nat Benjamin's schooner, Charlotte. Cangarda is still behind us.

We're ghosting in, quietly and slowly. Peoples' voices are lowered. Every once in a while you hear the captain and the mate and the crew exchanging orders and adjusting the sails as we get ready to make a turn into Vineyard Haven. It's a beautiful day, a quiet little breeze and a wonderful greeting from many kinds of Island boats.