There are dozens of places to grab a morning coffee and a treat on the Island. But at Behind the Bookstore (aka BTB) in Edgartown, pastry chef Deva Randolph is creating baked treats worth traveling for.
Tucked behind Edgartown Books, BTB has been a seasonal favorite since 2013 when bookstore owners Jeff and Joyce Sudikoff transformed the brick-lined terrace into a café. Eventually they took over a small building that now serves as the coffee bar/pastry shop and where you place your order before finding a table. (The café also serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and the patio includes The Hemingway Bar.) In addition to plentiful shade from trees, a canopy of canvas sails covers the terrace, creating a cozy space, rain or shine. BTB’s outstanding coffee drinks – French press, pour-over and espresso – are made with Intelligentsia Black Cat organic beans.
This is Deva’s third season at BTB and she and her team are working seven days a week to fill the pastry case. While lofty croissants (plain, chocolate and savory) are a BTB favorite, Deva’s creative offerings include cruffins with different fillings (S’mores anyone?), innovative scones and muffins, a Sourdough Kamut Demi Baguette, a Vegan Coffee Cake and a selection of cookies, from chocolate chip to special offerings such as Blue Corn Sugar Cookies and Strawberry Snickerdoodles (one of our favorites). Seasonal offerings change regularly, so be prepared to check out the case when you get to the head of the line. (Our five favorites, listed below, may not all be in stock the day you arrive, but there will be something equally delicious in its place.)
And by the way, be patient with that line – it always moves, and you’ll be glad you stood in it. Note: the bakery also has a pre-order menu online for special occasion bulk orders, and a seasonal second location is at the back of the Magnetic North boutique at 18 Beach street in Vineyard Haven.
1) Masa Tea Cakes ($4)
Deva combines brown butter, cardamom, almond flour and blue masa harina to create her lightly spiced cakes. (Masa harina is a naturally gluten-free flour, made from masa dough, with an earthy flavor that is milder than cornmeal.) Not too sweet, slightly nutty in flavor and with a velvety texture, this is the perfect two-bite treat to enjoy with a cup of coffee.
2) Corn Muffin with Honey Butter or Banana Nut Muffin ($4.75)
I’ll say it: a great muffin is hard to find, but BTB’s fluffy sweet corn muffin is even more outrageous with its top hat of honey butter. Second choice for a delicious muffin that ’ s moist on the inside with crunchy bits of brown sugar and nuts on the outside: the Banana Nut Muffin (pictured).
3) Cinnamon Roll ($5.50)
I’m convinced there is maybe one person alive who can resist the bite of a soft, fresh cinnamon roll topped with a cream cheese glaze. The BTB cinnamon roll – large enough for two – is the buzz of Edgartown and sets a high bar for this breakfast classic. (The light and flaky Morning Bun, made from croissant dough and covered in just the right amount of cinnamon sugar and a hint of orange, is a lovely substitute.)
4) Feta Sumac Za’atar Scone ($5.50)
If your tastes run more savory than sweet, be sure to order this spiced scone. Enough to feed two (or one hungry person), the buttery flavor, tender texture and subtle flavors of sumac and the Middle Eastern spice Za’atar make this a must-try.
5) Strawberry Snickerdoodle ($4)
I’m not normally a fan of Snickerdoodles but the addition of fresh strawberries adds an intense berry flavor to this generous cookie, which also has a perfectly chewy texture. Everyone who tastes this loves it. Order two if you plan to share.
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Behind the Bookstore
46 Main Street, Edgartown
(774) 549-9123
Open 7 Days; take-out orders by phone
Coffee bar/bakery open 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Breakfast served 8 to 11:30 a.m.
Lunch served noon to 3 p.m.
Dinner served 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.; reservations recommended.
Hemingway Bar open 10 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Bakery pre-orders and custom cakes available.
Closes for the season October 7, 2024
Second location:
18 Beach Street, Vineyard Haven (behind the Magnetic North boutique)
@behindthebookstore
Laura Holmes Haddad is a former cookbook editor and regular contributor to the Vine.
All photos by Ray Ewing.
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