Celebration Traces Portuguese Heritage
Feast of Holy Ghost Draws Hundreds for Sopa Ritual
By BRIEN HEFLER
Anyone who came to this weekend's Feast of the Holy Ghost,
whether for food or community spirit, didn't leave hungry.
The annual event once again drew hundreds to the Portuguese-American
Club in Oak Bluffs for music and festivities. The two-day celebration
honors Queen Isabella of Aragon, who in the 13th century donated her
jewels to feed the poor. As in years past, the tasty Portuguese sopa was
available by the bowlful - first for sale on Saturday, and then
for free on Sunday, in honor of the queen's noble aspiration to
feed the less fortunate of her country.
SRC="http://www.mvgazette.com/news/2005/07/19/content/holy_ghost_crown_sm.jpg" The feast began Saturday, and by 6 p.m. cars lined both sides of
Vineyard avenue. People stopped near the entrance to purchase the
event's currency - tickets - only to be seen doubling
and tripling back for more as the evening wore on. Peals of laughter
came from the children playing games and winning prizes. The tempting
aroma of malasadas, or fried dough, sizzling shish kabobs and sopa
wafted through the sweet summer air.
Steaming bowls of soup were everywhere: on picnic tables under the
bright white tent, balanced precariously on knees and held chest high
while people walked along the midway. More than 700 gallons were served,
and a glimpse inside the sweltering kitchen proved it took more than
just linguica and kale to make a good soup: dedication and a strong
sense of community were also necessary.
John Powers stirred the giant cauldron of soup with a wooden oar.
His wife, Linda, along with Shirley Toscano and Paul and Barbra Humber
formed the assembly line, ladling beef, mint and the sopa into bowls.
Lania Bonito was the impromptu head chef, pinch hitting here and there,
while Keith Enos handed out bowl after bowl to eager hands.
SRC="http://www.mvgazette.com/news/2005/07/19/content/holy_ghost_parade_sm.jpg" "It's got to be a cooperative effort," Mr. Powers
explained as he stirred the bubbling soup. Mrs. Bonito echoed his
sentiment, adding that the oldest members of the club were hard at work
on Friday, dicing the vegetables and beef for the crowd favorite.
Outside, more volunteers manned the numerous booths. Edgartown
police Sgt. Tony Bettencourt collected tickets for the malasadas, urging
people to pick the biggest piece of the fried dough, dredged in two
kinds of sugar. On Sunday he was relieved by Edgartown police chief Paul
Condlin, who pointed out that it takes a law enforcement official to
know a good pastry.
On both days of the feast Dave Araujo played auctioneer, gently
prodding (some might say badgering) bidders into buying lobster and
sweet bread.
"I've got to make plenty of money for the PA or
they're going to beat me," Mr. Araujo pleaded to the
audience, raising the price for a combo to $45 in mere minutes Saturday.
By the end of the feast, more than 270 pounds of lobster had been sold,
along with donated goods and countless loaves of sweet bread. In keeping
with the club mission, all of the proceeds will go back to the
community. Last year the event raised more than $49,000, which was put
toward scholarships.
SRC="http://www.mvgazette.com/news/2005/07/19/content/holy_ghost_dancers_sm.jpg" The outpouring of volunteers is what makes the feast possible, said
Tricia Bergeron.
"I might be the organizer, but all the people make it
work," said Ms. Bergeron, now president of the Portuguese-American
Club and in her 17th year as feast planner.
"My favorite part of this is Sunday. It's really
Vineyard Day," she said. "The whole community comes
out."
As the sun slid lower Saturday, the festivities continued. Children
fenced with brightly colored inflatable swords won at the game booths.
Tickets flew off the coils as latecomers scrambled to join in the fun.
By nightfall, the atmosphere grew more raucous. Fueled by the
energetic music of the Stingrays, three people broke out in spontaneous
line dancing on the midway. The party stretched well into the evening,
lasting past midnight.
Sunday morning brought apprehension, as cloudy skies seemed to
promise rain while the parade cued up at the Steamship Authority wharf.
Starting at 11:30, the long line snaked down Circuit avenue as people
crowded the curbs to watch.
SRC="http://www.mvgazette.com/news/2005/07/19/content/holy_ghost_m_blake_sm.jpg" In the procession were members of the Dukes County sheriff's
department in dress uniforms. Portuguese dancers from New Bedford rode
in a trailer, strumming and singing traditional folk songs. The Bay
State Band from Wareham kept the tempo for the parade, led by the
enthusiastic conducting of Frank Noonan. Oak Bluffs police chief Erik
Blake led a group of officers in march, and fire trucks from Oak Bluffs
and Tisbury lit up the gray day with flashing lights and screaming
sirens. Army Sgt. Michael Blake, back from his second tour in Iraq,
proudly carried the American flag for the color guard.
The parade traveled down Circuit avenue and stopped at Our Lady Star
of the Sea Church for the traditional blessing of the club's
crown, a symbol of Queen Isabella.
Each year one lucky girl who has received her first communion
carries the crown, and this year a glowing Sydney Davies, 8, had the
honor. Dressed in her sparkling white communion dress and parade-savvy
sneakers, Miss Davies was flanked by her court: John, 9, and Thomas
O'Shaughnessy, 8, Aaron Teves, 7, Olivia Ogden, 8, Ashlyn
Tattersall, 8, Diamond Araujo, 8, and Heidi White, 8. The children lined
up at the steps of the church for the blessing by Deacon Fred LaPiana,
and stayed in perfect repose - even when sprinkled with a healthy
does of holy water.
SRC="http://www.mvgazette.com/news/2005/07/19/content/holy_ghost_metell_araujo_sm.jpg" "When people look upon you in the crown, people will remember
St. Isabella," Mr. LaPiana told Miss Davies. "She was an
example to all of us."
The marchers continued on, waving to crowds and distributing candy
on their way to Sacred Heart Cemetery. There, wreaths commemorating past
club members were laid by Ms. Bergeron and the oldest member of the
club, Joe Nunes, 95. Afterward, Ms. Bergeron, accompanied by Chief
Blake, laid another wreath in honor of her son, Eric Bergeron MacLean,
who died in 2001. A two-gun salute was fired and taps was played crisply
on two trumpets, one far away and one close.
The parade ended its journey back at the club grounds, where the
feast was blessed. After a rousing rendition of the Portuguese and
American national anthems by the Bay State Band, the merrymaking
commenced again and the line for free sopa quickly formed. By 12:30
p.m., it snaked around the building, and scarcely three hours later the
last bowl had been served.
SRC="http://www.mvgazette.com/news/2005/07/19/content/holy_ghost_auction_sm.jpg" Undaunted by the warmth of the afternoon, the crowd-pleasing
Portuguese dancers from New Bedford, a staple at the event, once again
danced and sang. More malasadas were fried, burgers grilled and games
played. The last of the lobsters and sweet bread were auctioned off. And
through it all, the familiar and familial feel of an Island come
together could be felt.
"It's very emotional for me," Ms. Bergeron said of
the feast. "Sunday is what the club and the crown is all about:
community."
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