From the June 20, 1947 edition of the Vineyard Gazette:

Again and yet again the discussion has arisen regarding the origin of the “johnny-cake,” the pan-cake and perhaps other varieties of open-fire-baked breads. Research has convinced some of those who steadfastly hold to their argument that the “johnny-cake” was once the “journey-cake,” perhaps, if not probably, of Scotch origin. Not as an argument, or even a suggestion that this is wrong, but merely to arouse speculation and thought, a couple of traditions, apparently quiet ancient, are herewith submitted. Whether or not they have a bearing upon the name of “johnny-cake” may be left entirely to the judgment and conclusion of anyone who happens to read it.

Fifty years ago, an elderly Vineyarder said this: “Throughout the old English folk-songs, particularly those designed for the amusement of children, will be found mention of the ‘penny-cake.’ The name indicated the price for which it was vended, and it was, apparently a sort of bread, perhaps sweetened, perhaps not, but a tasty variety of food.

“We know that in those ancient times there was no such cooking utensil known as a pan. Cans, kettles, pots, grills, spits, all were known and used, but not the pan. We know also that there has always been a tendency among English-speaking people, to alter the sound of the letter ‘e’, to that of ‘a’. The English of today, and of yesterday, pronounced clerk as though it were spelled ‘clark’, and many other words are and have been similarly pronounced. Also, it will be found that early Americans, speaking of the pan-cake, called it the ‘panny-cake’ at times. Thus it is quite reasonable to suppose that the pancake of today may once have been the English ‘penny-cake’.”

“Johnny”, attached to the fired or ash-baked meal cake, is a word or name to conjure with. Masons of ancient times used, for certain purposes, a peculiarly shaped trowel. This trowel, or variations of it, may sometimes be found in the kit of very old stone-masons today. The oldest of such craftsmen called such a trowel a “jenny”, why, nobody knows. But at some time before the stove was invented, there was known a peculiar, paddle-shaped utensil for baking, that was shaped much like the trowel. It was flat, circular in form, with a handle cast in the same metal, and resembled a thin stove-lid with a poker extending from one side, or a simplified form of ancient griddle.

Because of its resemblance to the trowel, perhaps, some people called this pan or griddle “jenny”. Could it be, perhaps, that the “johnny-cake” was once the “jenny-cake”? Perhaps the jenny was never sufficiently popular or widely used to warrant this belief. Like the tin-kitchen, its use may well have been limited to those families who were able to afford the “new-fangled” novelties of their day.

But the idea is intriguing. Indeed, it might be quite convincing but for another peculiar name of a cake that was used by the ancients. This was “Jonathan”, and there is no reason for associating this with the name of “Johnny”, nor is there reason for believing that it was any sort of corruption of the first. For the jonathan was not a meal cake, but of wheaten flour.

It was, in fact, a variety of shortcake, and was usually smothered with cooked fruit of one kind or another. It was not a dessert; although it might at times have been served as such, but for the most part it constituted a main dish, and the families of the country’s forefathers drew up and made a hearty meal of “apple jonathan”, even as they did with fruit potpie and strawberry shortcake on occasion.

But why “jonathan”? That is the question, and why “johnny-cake”, for that matter.

Why associate the name of a man or boy with any sort of food, unless he was the inventor, and this seems unlikely. The tales of the “journey” cake have been many, and most of them have a reasonable sound at first hearing. But historians have said that the Scotch, of perhaps 1200, before and after, carried a bag of meal and an iron griddle at their belts when travelling, indicating that they made their cakes when required, on the spot. Now these people, like the English of those early times, had no maize, but ate wheaten and oat or rye flower, perhaps barley in certain sections. Yet in America where the johnny-cake has been best known, it has applied only to the maize, or corn-meal cake. If the word came from Europe, whatever its form or meaning, why tag it on a corn-cake instead of the oat or wheat cake to which it originally was applied?

It doesn’t matter in the least, which is right, but it would be interesting to know if the stone-squarers of King Solomon baked their cakes of their broad-nosed trowels before the fire, and whether or not, one of the cast-iron jennys has been preserved in some old attic or cellar. Not that such knowledge would in the least affect the toothsome flavor of the “Indian” cake or the other dishes made form “Indian” meal, as many of the early Americans called them.

Compiled by Hilary Wall

library@mvgazette.com