Fruitcake lovers, come over to the dark side.
For bakers, the dark side might be the world of chocolate-colored hermits. For those in the know, hermits are a type of cookie, often in the form of a brownie-like bar, that includes spices, fruit, and sometimes nuts. It is also a regional specialty that up until last weekend had been unknown to me until my mother-in-law expressed a craving for this baked good.
Having lived in New England for almost 20 years, I was surprised that I had never heard of this specialty. Turns out it is a regional thing, which might explain my hermit-less upbringing in New Jersey.
For those like myself who might be unfamiliar with this provincial delicacy, let me share some cookie history and lore.
An early reference to the hermit cookie was credited to late nineteenth-century teacher and journalist Anna Barrows. In an 1888 article in the Springfield Republican, she shares her “must haves” for a picnic. These included “potted meats, acid jellies, and a cookie quite as good as a fruitcake.” She expanded on the benefits of the hermit, noting that it is the “ultimate in convenience cookies that will keep for months if out of humanity’s reach.”
Boston-based cookbooks of the early twentieth century included recipes, as did other smaller, localized community cookbooks throughout New England. Some, however, suggest that hermit-like cookies are a much older and worldwide phenomenon, having descended from medieval Arabian recipes.
Wherever those cookies came from, Barrows and earlier cookie connoisseurs may have hit upon one of their major benefits. This type of pastry lasts long, retaining its flavor over time, thus contradicting Shakespeare’s condemnation of a person who has “like a hermit overpass’d thy days.”
Hermits also don’t require refrigeration, taste better with time as spices age, and can be made from baking trimmings or ingredients that most households have on hand. And the recipe is truly adaptable in terms of its constituents.
Variety is the spice of life, and spice variety is a key factor in any hermit recipe. Hermits are known for their russet color, spicy taste and aromatic essence. Different recipes call for different spices, but any, and sometimes all, of the following — cloves, nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, and allspice — can be incorporated.
Fruit is a vital feature in any hermit. Purists say only raisins, but various versions include other fruits, such as cranberries, citrus, apricots and currants. Our northern neighbors in Canada were known to feature dates in their hermits.
Regional distinctions are many. In northern New York, brown sugar was the standard, while New Englanders preferred white sugar. Molasses could also be used, and during hard times, such as WWI, sorghum was even used as a replacement for rationed sugar. Eggs and/or lard might or might not be part of the recipe.
Most fascinating, however, is the name of this special treat. While there is no definitive origin story, there are many hypotheses. The brown appearance of the cookie is said to resemble a hermit’s robe or sack. And because they can last for so long, soldiers, sailors, and travellers whose nomadic and isolated ways are akin to a hermit’s coveted them. Perhaps, also, this ability to be sequestered away from the comings and goings of daily life contributed to their moniker.
The New Year has brought me a new treat to try, and to share with friends and loved ones. It has also provided a very suitable resolution — to spice up your life — to take to heart for the coming year.
Suzan Bellincampi is director of the Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary in Edgartown, and author of Martha’s Vineyard: A Field Guide to Island Nature and The Nature of Martha’s Vineyard.
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