From the August 17, 1973 edition of the Vineyard Gazette:

In the days before dieting and nightly cocktail parties, when Island life was not yet blighted by the confusion and congestion of too many automobiles, ice cream parlors were the popular gathering places — the Vineyard’s equivalent of the sidewalk cafe.

Whatever the time of day, people found an excuse to sit down and treat themselves to a scoop or more of homemade ice cream. Ice cream put the finishing touch on all varieties of summer activities.

One of the earliest soda parlors on the Island was Rausch’s at Oak Bluffs. Conveniently situated on Circuit avenue, Rausch’s was furnished with all the trappings of an old fashioned ice cream parlor. Marble-topped tables, wrought-iron chairs, swinging lamps with elaborate Victorian shades and a wooden counter were among the extra-gastronomic attractions of the establishment.

During the early decades of this century, Rausch’s ice cream enjoyed a wide reputation and a faithful clientele. As one Vineyard resident remarked, a trip to Oak Bluffs in those days was not complete, in fact was unthinkable, without a stop at Rausch’s.

Harry T. Burleigh, the New York composer, was one of Rausch’s loyal customers. He was known for initiating his small friends into the mysteries of Rausch’s frozen puddings, which were reputed to contain generous doses of rum. Other specialties of the place were cantaloupe a la mode and banana splits.

Also in Oak Bluffs was the Arcade and ice cream shop. Oak Bluffs residents remember this as being the first place to introduce the ice cream cone, which caused a minor revolution in methods of ice cream eating. Ice cream became a take-out, portable commodity, competing with Darling’s boxes of buttered and molasses popcorn.

Vineyard Haven could also boast its ice cream parlors. Walter Norton had a place on Main Street which was replaced in the early 20s by Mr. and Mrs. Leroy Luce’s shop. Luce’s ice cream parlor soon became a notable local institution, drawing crowds of such proportions that, at peak times, lines formed down the street and around the corner, waiting for admittance.

Mrs. Luce learned the art, for indeed it was an art, of confectionery at Fanny Farmer’s cooking school in Boston. Her ice cream was, by all accounts, delicious. Rich cream, butter and eggs formed the custard base of her different flavored ice creams. Fresh fruits were used for sherbets and ices, and any form of substitute was scorned.

Cream came every day on the ferry from New Bedford and strawberries and peaches were bought in season from Island farms. Mrs. Luce never altered her recipes, (which she kept secret,) even during the wartime rationing. Prices went up but the richness and quality of the ice cream remained the same.

Despite her Methodist upbringing, Mrs. Luce, like Mr. Rausch, served a rum-flavored frozen pudding. Ice cream sodas made with sarsaparilla, root beer, ginger and strawberry were also offered.

Young girls in colorful print dresses chosen at the beginning of every summer by Mrs. Luce served anxious customers, famous and not so famous. Amongst those who frequented Mrs. Luce’s richly laden counter were Harry T. Burleigh, Paul Robeson, H. K. Vanderbilt, John Paul Getty, Katharine Cornell, Vivian Leigh and Sir Laurence Olivier, who took lessons in making ice cream sodas from Mrs. Joseph Burgess who was then working for Mrs. Luce.

Another landmark in Vineyard Haven was Mrs. Revel’s ice cream parlor, situated at the end of Main street.

A few tables were set up on the porch where people sat and enjoyed plentiful servings of ice cream made with “the best cream and fruit juices.” Mrs. Revel also supplied churches and clubs.

There were other small ice cream parlors on Martha’s Vineyard. One belonging to Mrs. Maude Call, was in North Tisbury where the Red Cat Bookstore is now. Mrs. Call had tables set up in her house where she offered homemade ice cream to weary travelers on their way home from a day’s excursion to Gay Head.

Also in West Tisbury Mrs. George Gifford ran an ice cream shop in the grain room of Gifford’s Store at the Edgartown-West Tisbury Road. West Tisbury children used to wait outside in carts or cars while the grown-ups went in and ordered the appropriate number of ice cream cones. Back they came, their hands filled with an array of dripping cones, chocolate, vanilla and strawberry. The ice cream was homemade, and predictably delicious.

In Menemsha, a simple ice cream parlor was annexed to the bakery shop, where the Wayside Camp is now located.

Before the First World War, Mrs. Charles Ryan ran an ice cream parlor in Lobsterville in Gay Head. Memories of this place are vague and reminiscences about its character and menu hard to find. Nonetheless, Mrs. Ryan’s shop is remembered with affection by Gay Head residents.

Traditions may change, but their flavor keep their appeal.

Compiled by Hilary Wallcox
library@vineyardgazette.com