The sights and sounds of a new season are all around us. Village streets grow quieter and parking spaces come open. Already we are moving from T-shirts to sweaters, from sweet corn in farm fields to pumpkins and squash and sunflowers bent in final salute to the changing of the seasonal guard. The sails of summer are vanishing and only a few are left to catch the crisp autumn breezes. In Island woodlands the leaves turn and cool evenings bring the first smell of chimney wood smoke.